HAVING A BALL

By Karen Feld

It doesn't matter if it's the Democrats or Republicans . . . inaugural balls are a cattle call," says Mame Reiley, vice president of PGI Washington Incorporated, a production event-planning firm. Her sentiments echo those of many inaugural veterans, who will tell you that, despite the names on the guest list and the awesome aura of glamour surrounding the inaugural, these affairs resemble senior proms more than a royal wedding.

It's the magical label "ball" that confuses people. Don't think Cinderella, think high school flashback. But it's fun as long as you know what to expect-and plan accordingly.

Anticipation is what it's about-and we don't mean anticipating good times and elegant surroundings. Anticipate gridlock, long lines to get past metal detectors, nonstop music, toilets that may not flush, tacky souvenirs, overpriced cash bars pouring drinks in plastic cups, no nourishment beyond soggy potato chips, and-perhaps, just perhaps-the rush of catching a glimpse of the new president and first lady. Admittedly, the new "first couple" will show up at each of the 20 or so official balls (there were 14 four years ago). But whether they will make it to the unofficial events is anybody's guess. In short, the ball is a black-tie pep rally, but it's also the final inaugural flourish-a moment in history.

Since most hotels have a four-day minimum, partying begins Wednesday and continues round-the-clock through the weekend. The star-studded Friday night gala at the MCI Center and the traditional Texas State Society Black Tie and Boots bash (held even if the president isn't a Texan) at the Marriott Wardman Park kick off the official weekend, with Saturday the biggest day.

Not invited to an official inaugural ball? You can celebrate anyway if you use your connections wisely. State societies, corporations, charities and other organizations throw unofficial bashes. These include the Inaugural Ball for the Not-So-Well-Connected, the MTV Ball, the American Indian Inaugural Ball, and the Triangle Ball.

After you know where to go, the question is what to wear.

Dresses: Many invitations in Washington call for black tie. Men know to wear a tux, but for women the choices are more varied. "If you're 'old-school Washington,' you know jolly well how to dress-put on an evening dress, evening shoes and carry an evening bag," says etiquette maven Letitia "Tish" Baldrige. "But if you're 'new Washington,' you either put on a ball gown, which is unsuitable, or you put on a dress that's really a cocktail dress. That's just not correct."

Hillary Clinton wore an Oscar de la Renta gown in 1997. Tipper Gore wore a dress with a sparkly red-and-gold top. Dallas designer Victor Costa, who dressed Marilyn Quayle, was the hot name in clothing during the Bush administration. Ball gowns get crushed, so try a slim dress. Boutique owner Harriet Kassman (at Mazza Gallerie, 5300 Wisconsin Avenue NW; 202-363-1870) suggests bold colors-"reds, burgundy and shades of purple-they look well on most women." But more importantly, she advises, "Wear something that looks good on your body. Not every dress is for everybody." If you have a long black skirt, "add a red sequin Armani top." For the trendsetters, Kassman also carries Gianfranco Ferré's tapestry quilted jacket with velvet pants.

Accessories: Jewelry is popular, especially chokers, since people see you from the neck up in the crowd. Kassman suggests a pull-through of woven mink to wrap around your neck for both warmth and style.

Hair: Eivind Bjerke, longtime hairstylist to first ladies and political wives, is optimistic about business. "Some women will be wearing tiaras at the inauguration and State dinners-I have plenty of Kirby grips left from the Queen of England's visit," Bjerke says.

-K.F.